Caïus

First in a series a new reviews from Paris, Caïus, tucked away under the etoille on a small street in the 17th are two restaurants bearing the name Caïus, the zinc bar, and the more formal restaurant across the street. Not too formal to seat a party of four adults and four young children, then politely apologize at the end of the evening for the noise of the 'accident', a tray spill that was hardly noticed at our table. Tolerant of children and yet elegant and refined at the same time.

Our three course menu (EUR 39 per adult) started with perhaps the single best white truffle infusion gnocchi I've tasted. The broth was light in texture and weight on the palette, yet packed with dense flavor of parmesan, truffle and cream and a heavenly aroma the equal or better of many a fresh truffle. It is simply difficult to imagine how the chef packed so much aroma and flavor in a nearly weightless emulsion. A masterful gravity defying performance. And that was before tasting th featherly light layerred gnocci.

The pumpkin soup rivaled the gnocchi - wafting aromas that would tempt even the most doubtful.

The Bavarian Sirloin was the highlight of the second courses. As beef lovers can attest, European beef is often a disappointment to Americans, as raised, aged, and prepared, but Caïus is a pleasing exception.

The strawberry rhubarb completed the picture well.

Wines were reasonable priced, with some good Languedoc bottles the highlights.

Well recommended. ****

CAÏUS par Jean Marc Notelet
6 RUE D'ARMAILLÉ
PARIS 17EME
+33 1 42 27 19 20